Day 22: Carrion De Los Condes to Terradillos De Los Templarios


Tough day today.

Distance to go: 402.6 Kms

After a decent nights sleep at the Espiritu Santo convent we left at around 06:20 for what we knew was going to be a long day. We left the town and immediately started walking for 5 Kms on a country road which is never good on the feet first thing. A blister on my right heel started to cause me a few problems after the first few kilometres. 


Rain clouds gather

Then we picked up the Via Aquitana. This is an old Roman road still intact today that linked Burgos with Astorga. It ran dead straight for 11.5 Kms. It was soul destroying. On and off rain did not help. Once we had talked about the marvels of the road itself and that fact that Emperor Augustus rode along it and we were following, 4 Kms had passed. The remaining 7 were tedious. Nothing to see except fields of wheat. Little wildlife or flowers to gaze upon. Nothing.


At last, the end of the Roman road.

The small village of Caldadilla De La Cueza appeared as we walked over the last rise in the road. It was a sight for sore eyes. Whats more it had a cafe. We entered. It was full of other pilgrims moaning about sore feet and legs and the tedium of the previous 3 hours of walking.

We had a hot cup of tea and a big eggie and melted cheese bocadilla. This is like a big baguette sandwich. We left 30 minutes later rejuvenated.


The Senda.

The next 5 Kms was on “senda”. These are gravel tracks for pilgrims that run alongside busy roads and motorways. It was quite pleasant actually as there were trees and shrubs to keep you interested as you walked. 

We entered the small hamlet of Ledigos. It is another one horse town bereft of its equine connection. We moved on to our final destination, Terradillos De Los Templarios. This was a former stronghold of the Knights Templar.


Shared dinner.

Our Albergue, appropriately named after the Orders last Grand Master, Jacques De Molay is just lovely. It is the original albergue. A new and purpose built one lies at the village entrance but we preferred the character of the old one. We were not disappointed. Debbie and I have a room to ourselves and we have a proper bed again, not a bunk bed.

The albergue is full. All 49 places are occupied and we shared a dinner cooked by the owners. It has been a hard, sore and damp day.  But at the end of it, after a hot shower and dinner with familiar faces we live on to walk another day. Albeit with a blister on each heel now to contend with. One thing you learn on the Camino is that there is always somebody who knows everything about blister treatment. I will need them.

We are now half way to Santiago.

Distance walked today: 28 Kms

 © Mark Dexter 2015