Day 20: Castrojeriz to Frómista


The road leads west……again

Distance to go: 450.6 Kms

Last night we were all awoken by fireworks going off. I am still not sure what the reason but some of the bangs were really loud. This was around midnight. Knowing we would all be awake, our host Resti came in and said “come come, enjoy pelegrinos (pilgrims). Some did. I stayed put in my comfy bed.

At 0610 he came into the dormitory and switched the lights on. We were not allowed to get up before then. A house rule to make sure the really early birds that can rise as early as 4am and disturb everyone else dont do it this morning. Wonderful.

We had a simple breakfast and he gave us a Tau badge each to wear to protect us from harm, hugged each and very one of us and sent us on our way with a “Buen Camino”. I liked him. I liked him a lot and despite the old buildings and its run down appearance I would stay there again anytime. Resti really set me up for today. We needed it.


I will leave the caption to you.

I saw the tips of a pair of ears over a wall so held my camera over it to see who was on the other side. I am glad I did.


Pilgrims rest?


Roman causeway.

We passed the last pilgrims rest in the village and walked over an old roman causeway and bridge none the worse for wear after 2000 years. Just the river has changed its course to the north since then leaving it high and dry. 


I just know this will not be pleasant.


The view from the top

Then we went straight into a 12% climb for just over a kilometre. That got the heart pumping I can tell you. But the view from the top was worth all the huffing and puffing. The sun was up and the air was crisp and clear. It was a sight to stand and stare at for a while until the heart got itself under control again.

The descent on the other side was an 18% drop for 350 metres and that got the knees saying hello. That was the tough bit of the day over with.


Another Pilgrims rest.


Puente Itero

The walk to the next village was around 11 Kms. We passed the Ermita de San Nicholas and the beautiful Puente de Itero and entered the village of Itero de la Vega Here we enjoyed a very well earned cup of tea.

The walk to the next village was 8 kms and that was a struggle as it was getting hot now and Debbie was approaching the infamous 20 Kms mark where she turns from a nice lady to a dragon that mutters at you. We had another cup of tea and a fritatta. This is the typical Spanish egg and potato omelette. Then we set off the remaining 7 kilometres to Frómista. 


Just needs gates.

The guide book says “we now have a delightful shaded canal side walk”. Utter tosh. We boiled and baked. Yes there was the odd tree. I expected a lot more. We walked along the Canal de Castilla and passed the impressive but knackered locks and entered the town of Frómista and found the albergue for a bed for the night.


View from my bunk

My feet are killing me. This was a long and hottish day. Debbie is returning to the civilised person I married. Whats more we share a room with one of the vikings and two Spaniards. Jesus and Angel. Yes really. We are well protected tonight.


Pilgrim SOS station. The man in the black T shirt is a true saint.

My dog of the day are dogs of the day. Two sisters belonging to a man that set up a pilgrim sos stop in the hottest part of the walk as he has done for the past 5 years.


Twin one.


Twin two needs better manners.

We will end the evening in the company of our new friends Jimmy and Antoinette as they go home tomorrow. They will return in September to finish off their camino.

Distance walked today: 27 Kms

 © Mark Dexter 2015